Warum greifen Jugendliche zu Drogen? (German Edition)
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For a good style, I still work on the position of my arms doing that move. To surf bad, takes you years. To surf good a whole life or maybe never. That guy from California, Dan, called you the board genie. It seems like everybody wants to give you a board or surf gear. How come? In surfing and in the service business, we get to know a lot of people in the industry, from company owners, to reps, to shapers, to great surfers.
You build a network, you know. Maybe, I think it is what you could call a stoke exchange.
You own that house right at the spot, where you have your few guests and can surf every day. Tell us about the history. It was a lifetime dream. You know, I knew what I wanted to do in life and then everything lined up somehow. Lots of blessings, lots of stuff coming your way and opportunities, that you need to take and its a blessing to be here right now. A friend of mine and I bought the ground. He decided to go on other projects and we had different ideas of that business.
We just went separate ways. I built up the house step by step. First we had to wait and get the money together and I got to do it over long time.
I involved friends with skills because I am really not good with tools laughing. You know, I had the ideas for the design and the architecture. Is that house having a big impact on your travel behaviour?
Buy Warum Greifen Jugendliche Zu Drogen? book by Natalie Protz, - siccanoraref.ml
If you like surfing, I have access to really good waves around. Yeah, the waves are good indeed. Could you please comment the perception of surfing in the local community for our readers? In general, non-surfing people like surfing I would say. In El Salvador or elsewhere, people see surfing as a cool thing to do. Access to the beach is tricky sometimes, learning it is a lifetime endeavor. I guess people see surfing as a nice activity.
Is there awareness among the coast-folks for the opportunity of getting some money with surfing as locals? Yes, yes, definitely.
They see it as a way of make a living, before surfing, there was no real tourism. A lot of violation of human rights, no infrastructure. When you were a surfer, you really had to be hard core. That day, a down to earth and very skilled surfer came. It takes dedication and codes of behavior, that actually can only be passed from generation to generation or from family relatives. Do you see yourself making an impact on that process on your coast?
Cause you know, you need to maybe even grow up surfing or travel a lot to just gotta be the type of person, that actually hears and sees more then talks and does, you understand? So, yeah it has to do with attitude in life, which I can see in the water. I try. My reactions are not the most tolerant ones. Surfing is like martial arts, you never reach the end. Everything changes and its a constant process of adaptation. Basically, thats true for life as well.
You told me the story about that one situation, where you waited for your wave at the peak and another guy sprinted paddling to your inside to provoke priority, even doing it another time. There is a special thing about the different behavior with Brazilians, not sure if I should write that? No, no, no, please write that. There is a ton of good people from Brazil and it is such a big country, you know, not everybody is the same there, but still, they can know that.
I guess the way you are in the water, it is the way you are in life. A few days ago you told some stories about the old day in El Salvador, some really weird stories connected to surfing.
If you google El Salvador, all the institutes still warn from traveling there and bad stories make the round of people getting ripped of at Punta Roca and walk home naked. People are very friendly and help you for example with getting the chicken bus transfers managed grinning. Would you comment on what to do or not to do considering the dangers here? El Salvador has two worlds in itself within.
There is a world that is violent and dangerous. It is big mix of misconception.
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Our culture is nurtured form a lot of bad behaviors that are normalized. Poverty is beat drum, Ignorance is a beat drum. In general Salvadorians are nice people who like to talk a lot and being friendly. Also there is side of the people that can be a bit over it, emotions that are not properly handled. There is only one rule that rules them all, it is common sense. Use your common sense. My place or others at the beaches are pretty safe, you just get trouble if look for it, being super drunk or something, get argumentative. Or if you are wasted and try tog et drugs, not knowing people in the town.
I found it interesting to talk about history of the country connected to surfing, but there is already so much said about the bad stories, localism and violence. But there is another thing I would like to ask. Then this is your chance to showcase your project and win USD 50, to further your work!
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